 I formed the shaft of my double paddle to fit my hands, and it's a beautiful object, but the one time I used it I found it lacking in "bite." Well, that was a hard day for paddling no matter what you were using, so I owe it another try. Problem with it is that, unlike our Mohawk double paddles, it cannot be broken down into halves for easy transport. The single-blade, bent-shaft paddle I also made under Mac's tutelage, I use all the time. It's light, strong, and perfect for me, with a blade just under seven inches wide. For lightness, part of it is made from laminated spruce, but the back side of the tip and part of the shaft is made from teak for strength.
How long should your double paddle be? Common sense dictates the most important question: where are you sitting in the canoe? Bow paddlers can use the shortest paddle, stern paddlers need one a bit longer, and solo canoeists, paddling from the center of the craft, must have the longest shaft for best performance.
 A bent-shaft paddle, you say? In the photo, it looks broken! But no, the idea behind a bent-shaft paddle is that a blade works most efficiently within a twelve to fifteen degree range on either side of vertical, and is easier on the wrists. They were developed by marathon canoe racers, folks who really know their stuff. You may have a harder time doing the notorious J-stroke with it, but that's for another article. Paddle blades can also be made with a slight "cup" to them to catch the water, but they may also lag a bit when you pull them out. A well-formed paddle blade will slice efficiently into the water and save you precious energy.
 
The widest paddle I've ever seen was built by Tom at the same time I made mine. He was a very tall, very strong guy, and loved power and speed; but this unique double paddle, we teased him, looked like a couple of snow shovels clamped together! In the photos above, you see that the blades were curved to grab big shovelfuls of water, but added to the drag. He did use it for a few trips, but as it could not be transported too easily, remained dry most of the time.
 One small and vital invention must be mentioned here: the drip guards. These are rubbery disks which attach to the shaft of the double paddles: don't leave the dock without them! Which I did, just once! You know how your hands look when you've been in the bathtub too long, soft and wrinkly? Without drip guards keeping your hands dry, the skin will become hydrated and split easily. Not good.
Mohawk Paddles offers a wide range of sizes in single, straight-bladed paddles (from 48" to 66") as well as double and bent-shaft paddles. All of their paddle blades are 20 inches long. One with a T-grip, 8" blade and 54" long weighs 28 ounces and costs $21.95: www.mohawkpaddles.com. My first paddle was a Mohawk bent-shaft, and they still make them today ($34.95). Their double-bladed paddles, in three different shaft lengths, retail for $43.95.
If you favor the classic beauty of solid hardwoods, check out CanadianCanoes.com in southern Ontario (or as close as your computer!). Gorgeous black cherry, light poplar, black walnut, butternut or creamy white ash in various traditional shapes and shaft lengths are waiting for you to wet them. Prices of finished paddles range from $54 for poplar to $100 for black walnut; shipping extra. Or you can buy a pack of five unfinished paddles from $195 in poplar to $390 in black walnut. (All prices are quoted in Canadian dollars, and shipping is extra. Make sure to torture yourself by checking out their exquisite wood strip canoes made with the same techniques as our Zubenelgenube. Please tell owner Ron Frenette you heard about his company in The Canoe View News!)
Happy paddling to you, Good Reader, Now, grab that perfect paddle and get out on the water with your family and friends! But, not without your trash bag, and remember to leave only ripples behind you.
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